Seal Launches

You'll sometimes come across sea paddlers who seem to spend more time getting on and off the water than they do paddling. While there isn't one "right" way to launch a kayak, there are ways that are drier, more stable, less publicly humiliating, and better for your boat.

Most paddlers start by using the paddle as a supporting "kick stand." It's not a method that works in dynamic conditions (i.e., waves), but it does give the beginner a sense of stability on entry/exit. As a launching technique, I almost only ever use the paddle brace method in situations where the water level drops quickly (e.g., a rocky shelf or low dock). So how can one launch safely and efficiently from a high dock, or when swell or current would prevent setting up for a "kick stand" method? The answer: the seal launch.

Here's Marius demonstrating:



So what do you need to know to do this? What if there are waves? Current? And what if you have a fiberglass boat?


Basic Technique
The seal launch is actually quite easy. It's a basic launch for a whitewater boat, but the longer sea kayak tends to be a bit less stable if your launch platform is a sharp drop-off. Simply place your boat so that it's balanced with the cockpit just behind the tipping point. Enter the kayak, put on your spray skirt, then scoot your boat forward until the kayak slides into the water.

Keep your paddle in a safe bracing position as you enter...your boat will be considerably less stable at the point where the bow is in the water, the stern is still on land (the dock, rock, etc.), and your cockpit is suspended in midair.

Consideration #1: Swell
If launching into swells, time this so that your boat rides out as the swell is ebbing away, but be careful to time the set so that the next swell doesn't push you back into the dock, rocks, or whatever you launched from.

Consideration #2: Current
If seal launching into current, you'll need to edge the boat as you slide in, leaning and bracing downstream. This is the equivalent of doing a "peel out" when punching out of an eddy. The current will swing your bow downstream.

Consideration #3: Height of Drop
There are some practical limitations here. If its a straight drop, the higher it is, the steeper the angle of entry will be. My math may be a bit fuzzy, but assuming a 16.5' kayak, a drop of 6-8 feet would put it at just about vertical...at which point water depth becomes an issue and the kayak could "pop out" at an odd angle. If it's a sloping launch (kelp covered rocks, etc.) it's not a problem.

Consideration #4: Fiberglass Boats
On a straight drop (such as off the dock in the video clip), a great deal of pressure is exerted on the center of the kayak, which is bearing the full weight of the paddler at one point. This is one of the weakest points of any boat, which is why we spread our rack bars out a good bit from the cockpit when we transport a kayak by car. Does that mean you can't seal launch? No. But you might find a sideways seal launch to be your best bet.

In this method, line the boat up with its centerline on the edge of the drop, shift your weight so that the tips into the water. Have a high brace ready, and as the boat resurfaces, brace and use your hips to snap the boat back under you. Here's a quick demo:



Seal launches aren't hard, but it's best if you've got a reliable roll and good bracing skills before you go taking the plunge. It's a quick and easy way to get your boat in the water and get you on your way. Of course, as this clip reminds us, things can go terribly, terribly, wrong...