Every so often, a paddler needs to enter or exit their kayak from a low dock. A few simple steps will have you entering and exiting smoothly. Here's a quick video...click "read more" for detailed explanation complete with photos.
1) Maneuver your kayak parallel to the dock and release your sprayskirt.
2) Place the paddle shaft behind the seat to form a brace.
3) Be sure to grip the paddle shaft securely to the cockpit with the outside hand. Place your fingers on the inside of the cockpit and thumb over the paddle shaft, as seen in the photo below. This "bolts" the paddle to the kayak. If you don't do so, the boat can rotate freely and the stabilizing benefit of the paddle is lost! The dockside hand is placed on the paddle shaft on or near the dock.
4) Keeping your weight on the dockside hand, sit up on your back deck. As long as you're keeping your weight towards the dock, your boat will remain completely stable. Sitting on the back deck makes the last step much easier!
5) Swing your legs, then rear, to the dock, and you're home free!
I believe too often we stereotype equipment into broad categories and never think outside of the box enough to realize the full potential of a piece of gear.
As an exercise think of all the things you can use your paddle for other than propelling your kayak. Another piece of gear placed in the proverbial box is the VHF radio. This piece of equipment is meant for more than bouncing around in your boat waiting for the unfortunate day when you may need to call for somebody to pluck you out of the raging ocean with a helicopter. Lets take the VHF out of its box and look at some of its versatile features and also how to communicate appropriately using it. If you do not already own a handheld VHF the following are what I feel a few key features to look for when purchasing such equipment.
Battery: with any electronic device that I purchase, one of the most important features I look for is what type battery the unit uses. There are two reasons for this. The first is how long it is going to last in the backcountry and how am I going to recharge it. The second is can I use this battery in another device or in this case more importantly, can I steal the batteries from a non-critical device (camera) to keep my means of potential emergency communication functional. In many VHFs you can purchase aftermarket battery trays that accept common AA or AAAs that replace the factory provided battery.
Size:as is the case with all of our gear we need to consider the volume that a piece of equipment is going to displace.
Dual band: this is a typical feature on most –if not all modern VHFs, and is extremely helpful. It allows the user to set the unit on one channel for casual conversation while also monitoring another channel (say 16).
Weather: I use the weather band of my VHF perhaps more than any other feature. Because NOAA continually broadcasts local forecasts I can quickly tune into local marine forecasts. This is much more beneficial than the regional forecasts perhaps picked up on standard AM/FM stations.
Waterproof: while it may seem intuitive, there is a drastic and potentially devastating difference between waterproof and water resistant. Waterproof implies that the unit is submersible to some degree; water resistant simply refers to the ability of the unit to handle light splashes. While not standardized, most manufactures rate the waterproofness of their units using the government standard for durability (JIS). Higher numbers usually imply the unit can endure more intense environmental exposure. Look for at least a JIS 7 rating (waterproof up to 1meter for 30min). Even though your unit may be waterproof it is still a good idea to use some sort of drybag made for VHFs that allows full functionality while in the bag.
Communication by VHF
While I feel there are frequently better means of group communication (e.g. visual signals) the VHF radio can, in many situations be a desirable and vital means of getting in touch with somebody while on the water. A couple hints on communicating with the VHF.
First, remember the VHF was never meant to be a cell phone. You cannot chat with your paddling partner like a 13year old girl on the way to a Justin Timberlake concert, even if you sang SexyBackon the way to the water. When you begin a conversation announce who you are and who you are calling, for example “Orange Kayak this is Green Kayak come in.” Wait for an acknowledgement and then begin your conversation. Remember your purpose should be to obtain or give information which is pertinent to a specific condition. If you are planning on hailing somebody outside your party there are three technical introductions which need to be used each in relation to the nature of the call. They are:
Common safety notification: SECURITE… SECURITE … SECURITE (pronounced Su-cure-uh-tay)
When you are finished with your call announce it by saying either OVER (if awaiting further communication) or OUT (if ending all transmission), using both is redundant.
E.g., If I were crossing a channel I may announce “SECURITE (3x), this is Kayak 1, beginning crossing of channel near big blue light. OVER”
Second hint tip, it would behoove you and your group to designate a “working” channel for common chatter (68, 69, 71, and 78A are all open channels -- click here for a full list of VHF channel designations in the US). You'll get a firm reprimand from local authorities for using 16 to discuss where stop for lunch.
Other Tips
Become familiar with the function of your VHF, practice using it in your group. You will quickly learn how to maximize its usefulness as a verbal communication tool.
Keep your VHF close to you; it does little good tucked away in a day hatch underneath your lunch, spare clothes, water and first aid kit. I made a simple modification (see photo above) to my PFD using a piece of bungee and two brass grommets from the fabric store. When I am in a situation where I may use my VHF I keep it fastened to my PFD, I can quickly grab the unit, pull it free of the bungee and have full access for communication. Because it is tethered by the cord I can also let go of it and be ready to paddle in an instant.
Pack and transport your VHF in a way that ensures the unit is not accidentally turned on while traveling. I do this placing it and my other electronics in a plastic case. This will help you avoid the sinking feeling of putting on your gear and finding the batteries in your VHF have gone dead.
Summary
To recap, with your VHF you can: get the weather forecast, use the removable antenna as a finger splint, actively communicate with your group, communicate with other boat traffic, turn it up really loud and wake up a whole camp, make EMERGENCY calls.
You'll sometimes come across sea paddlers who seem to spend more time getting on and off the water than they do paddling. While there isn't one "right" way to launch a kayak, there are ways that are drier, more stable, less publicly humiliating, and better for your boat.
Most paddlers start by using the paddle as a supporting "kick stand." It's not a method that works in dynamic conditions (i.e., waves), but it does give the beginner a sense of stability on entry/exit. As a launching technique, I almost only ever use the paddle brace method in situations where the water level drops quickly (e.g., a rocky shelf or low dock). So how can one launch safely and efficiently from a high dock, or when swell or current would prevent setting up for a "kick stand" method? The answer: the seal launch.
Here's Marius demonstrating:
So what do you need to know to do this? What if there are waves? Current? And what if you have a fiberglass boat?
Basic Technique The seal launch is actually quite easy. It's a basic launch for a whitewater boat, but the longer sea kayak tends to be a bit less stable if your launch platform is a sharp drop-off. Simply place your boat so that it's balanced with the cockpit just behind the tipping point. Enter the kayak, put on your spray skirt, then scoot your boat forward until the kayak slides into the water.
Keep your paddle in a safe bracing position as you enter...your boat will be considerably less stable at the point where the bow is in the water, the stern is still on land (the dock, rock, etc.), and your cockpit is suspended in midair.
Consideration #1: Swell If launching into swells, time this so that your boat rides out as the swell is ebbing away, but be careful to time the set so that the next swell doesn't push you back into the dock, rocks, or whatever you launched from.
Consideration #2: Current If seal launching into current, you'll need to edge the boat as you slide in, leaning and bracing downstream. This is the equivalent of doing a "peel out" when punching out of an eddy. The current will swing your bow downstream.
Consideration #3: Height of Drop There are some practical limitations here. If its a straight drop, the higher it is, the steeper the angle of entry will be. My math may be a bit fuzzy, but assuming a 16.5' kayak, a drop of 6-8 feet would put it at just about vertical...at which point water depth becomes an issue and the kayak could "pop out" at an odd angle. If it's a sloping launch (kelp covered rocks, etc.) it's not a problem.
Consideration #4: Fiberglass Boats On a straight drop (such as off the dock in the video clip), a great deal of pressure is exerted on the center of the kayak, which is bearing the full weight of the paddler at one point. This is one of the weakest points of any boat, which is why we spread our rack bars out a good bit from the cockpit when we transport a kayak by car. Does that mean you can't seal launch? No. But you might find a sideways seal launch to be your best bet.
In this method, line the boat up with its centerline on the edge of the drop, shift your weight so that the tips into the water. Have a high brace ready, and as the boat resurfaces, brace and use your hips to snap the boat back under you. Here's a quick demo:
Seal launches aren't hard, but it's best if you've got a reliable roll and good bracing skills before you go taking the plunge. It's a quick and easy way to get your boat in the water and get you on your way. Of course, as this clip reminds us, things can go terribly, terribly, wrong...
