Five Fingers Footwear

No, this isn't a case of extreme frostbite. It's me in a pair of Five Fingers sandals-shoes-slippers-thingys. I had a chance to test these out recently and found them to be quite comfortable. The neoprene uppers prevented rocks and sand from entering the shoe, and the Vibram soles, while flexible, were tough enough to make the shoes comfortable in the boat and on land.

They may look a bit silly, but they are an alternative for kayaking footwear, especially for playboaters who have a hard time getting their feet into their boats.

Buying a Kayak 101

You're in the market for a new or used sea kayak. Now what? Unless you're an entirely impulsive person, buying your first kayak can be an overwhelming process.

I'm a strong believer that, if you're new to the sport, the best tactic is to educate yourself. One place to start is a retail shop that allows on-water demos. Test-driving a kayak is as important as test-driving a car! Taking a class from a reputable instructional school is another way to learn more about sea kayak designs, and will help you determine what features and designs are right for you.

A few common questions that new buyers agonize over:

- Should I buy plastic or fiberglass?
- What features should I look for?
- How do I know if a kayak is well made?
- What should I look out for if I'm buying a used boat?



PLASTIC OR FIBERGLASS?

Sea kayaks are made in a variety of materials: wood, canvas, plastic, fiberglass, kevlar, carbon-kevlar. Since plastic and fiberglass are the most common materials, I'll limit the discussion to those two.

Each has it's benefits and drawbacks. Plastic is relatively inexpensive, recyclable, and has tremendous impact resistance. On the other hand, its less stiff, deforms and weakens with exposure to heat and UV, is heavier, and is difficult to repair. Even all plastics are not made the same. Single-layer polyethylene boats tend to be less stiff. Several companies, including P&H and Valley Sea Kayaks make 3-layer polyethylene boats, which sandwich a foam core between two layers of plastic, resulting in a stiffer, lighter, and repairable boat. Most recently, thermoformed plastics are now being used for kayaks. These can be molded into more precise shapes, and are very lightweight but lack the impact resistance of polyethylene.

Many new paddlers shy away from fiberglass boats because they believe they're less durable than plastic. Spend a week with paddlers on the rocky coasts of Rhode Island or Maine and you'll see how false that is! Fiberglass boats can take a beating...but most importantly, they can be repaired easily and effectively with materials that are readily available to every boater. Composites are lighter, stiffer, and can be molded into finer entry lines than their plastic counterparts, which makes for a faster, more responsive kayak on the water.

8 FEATURES TO LOOK FOR

For a sea kayak, the following features are a must:

1) Good Bulkheads. At least two bulkheads (foam or fiberglass walls that divide the boat into compartments...this keeps the boat afloat after capsize and aids in draining the boat of water during rescues.) Bulkheads can be made of foam, welded plastic, or fiberglass.

2) Does it have a day hatch? The day hatch is a small third hatch accessible just behind the seat. As the name suggests, it's a place to store items that you might need quick access to, e.g., flares, first aid, GORP, or a camera. This is a feature that I have decided I can't live without!

3) Recessed deck fittings (RDFs). Deck fittings secure the deck lines and perimeter lines in place. These should be recessed into the deck, rather than protruding out from it.

4) No screw holes! One mark of a well made boat is that all the fittings are connected to molded brass inserts...there are no bolts coming through the kayak. Bolts can snag and tear dry bags. But they also can come loose, allowing water to enter your boat.

5) Skeg, Rudder, or None? This is the classic "less filling v. tastes great" debate of sea kayaking. Without getting into the relative merits of skegs and rudders, let me tell you that anyone who says that a rudder is necessary to turning doesn't know a thing about paddling! The truth is, both a rudder and a skeg are used for the same thing: to "trim" the kayak when paddling in a beam wind. This keeps the kayak on course. Turning is effected through proper paddle strokes and boat edging. Remember, 90% of the time, your skeg or rudder will not be deployed. With that in mind, it's up to you to determine whether during that 90% you'd prefer to have your stern end adorned with a sharp metal mechanical device rigged with steel cables or a nice skeg which won't slice and dice you like a tomato during rescues and surf landings! Any guess which side I'm on? ;)

6) Good hatch covers. This is what keeps the water out of your boat. If a hatch cover comes off too easily, that's not always a good thing. You don't want it popping off if a wave breaks on it, or if your scrambling up the side of your boat during a reentry. Kajaksport and Valley hatches are the best. See if pressure on the center causes the edges to pop off, or if you can accidentally pull the hatch off...if so, you may want to look at another boat. You can also check the seal buy putting water IN the hatch and tipping the boat upside down...if it leaks out, you've got a poorly fitting hatch.

7) Toggles. This seems simple enough, but this is one area where well-made boats stand out. Bow and stern toggles should run through the end of the bow and stern, rather than being bolted in with a fitting. A toggle running through solid plastic, or in the case of a fiberglass boat, solid resin block in the ends is less likely to fail. Toggles are used for hanging on to the boat during rescues, but they also end up being used for carrying the boat, tying off bow and stern lines, etc. You want a strong connection there.

8) Outfitting. You should feel like you're wearing your kayak, not sitting in it. To that end, thigh braces are a must. However, remember that outfitting (seat, thigh pads, etc.) can usually be adjusted to fit you or retrofitted with closed cell foam. Bolt-in (rather than molded in) seats can be removed to provide a lower center of gravity; back bands can be swapped out; hip pads added in. In other words, buy a kayak based on its hull, not how cushy the seat is. This is the least important part of your decision making!


USED BOATS: BUYER BEWARE

Buying a used boat can be a great cost saver. A kayak is a pretty simple machine...there's not a lot that can go wrong with it. However, there are some things to keep an eye out for.

Plastic boats
1) Look for deep gouges and excessive wear on the hull.
2) Examine all the bulkheads. If it's a foam bulkhead, it can easily be resealed with marine-grade silicon caulk.
3) Check for "oil-canning." These are permanent bulges on the hull of the kayak, usually from years spent cranked down on a rack.

Fiberglass or composite boats
1) Shine a flash light through the hull to look for thin spots or evidence of repairs.
2) Check the seam (where the deck and hull are connected by a piece of 2" fiberglass tape) to make sure it's intact.
3) Check the gel coat for chips, gouges, and cracks. Spider(star-shaped cracks) and hairline cracks are common in the gelcoat of fiberglass boats. This occurs when the boat flexes under stress (from loading, surf, or the weight of a paddler doing a jig on the back deck) and the gelcoat, which is less flexible than the fiberglass under it, gives. This is common over the bulkheads. However, a spider crack in the middle of the freeboard may suggest a collision, so be sure to inspect the glass behind it.
4) Check to make sure the bulkhead glass is intact.

All boats
1) Check the hatch covers. Rubber hatches should be pliable and fit tightly on the rims. If they appear cracked or are very loose, they are UV damaged and need to be replaced. If so, be sure the hatches are still available for that model. Most British boats use standard covers from Valley or Kajaksport, so that's easy. Many American manufacturers make their own hatches, so that could be tricky.
2) Check all lines for fraying. Deck elastics should snap tightly against the boat. Lines and elastics can easily be replaced.
3) If the boat is equipped with a skeg, make sure it deploys fully. If it has a wire skeg, examine the skeg cable both at the slider and at the skeg for evidence of past kinking. If it has kinked once, it's bound to do it again in the same location.

Spring Cleaning

I hope all of you have been out paddling by now. I also hope all of you have also taken time to critically look at your paddling gear to make sure it is ready for another year of paddling. If not let's go through the most important pieces starting with your PFD.






Make sure it has no tears or parts that have become unstiched. Check to make sure all the zippers, snaps, and adjusting buckles still operate. Check the fabric, adjusting straps and buckles to ensure they still have there orignal strength. Remember your PFD is exposed to the same UV radation that we are but does have the benefit of sunscreen so over time it degrades loosing its structural integrity. Usually this can be seen as the color of the vest isn't as bright, but be sure to pull and tug on the fabric to ensure its strength is still there. Having your vest coming apart in the water would not be the best way to test your vest.





Next your let's take time to examine your spray skirt. Begin on the top surface looking for worn spots, holes, and tears. Also look at the tunnel area (the part that goes around your chest area) for damage. Remember that dirt acts as a grinding agent that slowly destroys your skirt, so a clean skirt will last longer. Flip the skirt over and look at the underside for worn areas, holes, and tears. Be especially mindful of the area that attaches to coaming of your kayak as this area experiences the most stress and wear. Finally check to see that it has the correct tension when pulled over your cockpit. To loose and it won't be able to stay on in choppy and rougher water. To tight and you may struggle trying to get it on and off.





Take time to look at your paddles, both primary and spare. Begin at a blade on one end looking for cracks, chips, anything unusual. Work your way down the blade to were it joins the shaft. Make sure it is still firmly attached, again checking for cracks, splits anything that looks unusual probably needs closer examination. Continue up the shaft looking for the same thing, and continue until you reach the end of the other blade.


Finally take the time to give your kayak a good wash both inside and out. This is the time to check for cracks, dents, God forbid holes. Afterwards start at the bow or stern and slowly work your way to the other end. Check the toggles for wear, ensure the hatchs still seat properly. Look inside each hatch compartment to ensure the bulkheads are still in place and firmily mounted. Check all the deck lines and bungees for wear and replace anything that is worn. Take plenty of time in the cockpit. Check the back band, seat, footbraces, and thigh braces for wear, broken parts. Again TAKE YOUR TIME, this is where you work and play, make sure its functioning properly. This is also a good time to add any padding to make it more comfortable or make it fit better.

Most of this can be done down the basement or in your garage on one of the many rainy days that have been occurring. One of my favorite passages "The sea favors the prepared" comes into mind when I'm examining my gear. Well today is suppose to be sunny and cool but I can't think of a better day to be on the water. Hope to see you there.

Werner Paddles

Just a bit of shameless product promotion. Admittedly, I've drunk the Kool-Aid when it comes to Werner's line of foam-core carbon fiber paddles. They're super light, super buoyant (which means less fatigue over time), and--as this little vid that's been making the rounds on the net illustrates--super strong!

Recycling Fuel Canisters

For multi-day trips, I opt to use a white gas stove. White gas is easy to find, and white gas canisters are refillable. Some people aren't comfortable with the priming process, but in reality, white gas stoves are safe and easy to operate. Maintenance includes periodic cleaning to keep the fuel lines and burner jets free of deposits.

I also carry a MSR Pocket Rocket canister stove. This operates using a pressurized fuel canister which contains Iso-Propane fuel. These are easy to operate (just turn them on and light), which is ideal for that getting the coffee going in the morning when you're cold and groggy. One drawback to these stoves is the fact that the canisters lose pressure as they draw down, so the BTU output reduces over time...they also lose pressure in cold temperatures. In addition, the canisters aren't refillable, however they are recyclable.

How to Recycle a Spent Fuel Canister

>Simply empty your canister of all fuel, then puncture it with a tool (Snowpeak makes a handy one, but a big rock works too!), then put the canister in with your alumnium recyclables.

Check with your municipal works department to determine just what the requirements are for recycling canisters in your area...some will take empty (marked EMPTY with a sharpie), but un-punctured canisters.

Happy paddling!

Equipment: VHF

I believe too often we stereotype equipment into broad categories and never think outside of the box enough to realize the full potential of a piece of gear.

As an exercise think of all the things you can use your paddle for other than propelling your kayak. Another piece of gear placed in the proverbial box is the VHF radio. This piece of equipment is meant for more than bouncing around in your boat waiting for the unfortunate day when you may need to call for somebody to pluck you out of the raging ocean with a helicopter. Lets take the VHF out of its box and look at some of its versatile features and also how to communicate appropriately using it.

If you do not already own a handheld VHF the following are what I feel a few key features to look for when purchasing such equipment.

Battery: with any electronic device that I purchase, one of the most important features I look for is what type battery the unit uses. There are two reasons for this. The first is how long it is going to last in the backcountry and how am I going to recharge it. The second is can I use this battery in another device or in this case more importantly, can I steal the batteries from a non-critical device (camera) to keep my means of potential emergency communication functional. In many VHFs you can purchase aftermarket battery trays that accept common AA or AAAs that replace the factory provided battery.

Size:as is the case with all of our gear we need to consider the volume that a piece of equipment is going to displace.

Dual band: this is a typical feature on most –if not all modern VHFs, and is extremely helpful. It allows the user to set the unit on one channel for casual conversation while also monitoring another channel (say 16).

Weather: I use the weather band of my VHF perhaps more than any other feature. Because NOAA continually broadcasts local forecasts I can quickly tune into local marine forecasts. This is much more beneficial than the regional forecasts perhaps picked up on standard AM/FM stations.

Waterproof: while it may seem intuitive, there is a drastic and potentially devastating difference between waterproof and water resistant. Waterproof implies that the unit is submersible to some degree; water resistant simply refers to the ability of the unit to handle light splashes. While not standardized, most manufactures rate the waterproofness of their units using the government standard for durability (JIS). Higher numbers usually imply the unit can endure more intense environmental exposure. Look for at least a JIS 7 rating (waterproof up to 1meter for 30min). Even though your unit may be waterproof it is still a good idea to use some sort of drybag made for VHFs that allows full functionality while in the bag.

Communication by VHF

While I feel there are frequently better means of group communication (e.g. visual signals) the VHF radio can, in many situations be a desirable and vital means of getting in touch with somebody while on the water. A couple hints on communicating with the VHF.

First, remember the VHF was never meant to be a cell phone. You cannot chat with your paddling partner like a 13year old girl on the way to a Justin Timberlake concert, even if you sang SexyBack on the way to the water. When you begin a conversation announce who you are and who you are calling, for example “Orange Kayak this is Green Kayak come in.” Wait for an acknowledgement and then begin your conversation. Remember your purpose should be to obtain or give information which is pertinent to a specific condition. If you are planning on hailing somebody outside your party there are three technical introductions which need to be used each in relation to the nature of the call. They are:

Urgent Emergency: MAYDAY…MAYDAY…MAYDAY

Potentially developing problem: PAN…PAN…PAN (pronounced pahn)

Common safety notification: SECURITE… SECURITE … SECURITE (pronounced Su-cure-uh-tay)

When you are finished with your call announce it by saying either OVER (if awaiting further communication) or OUT (if ending all transmission), using both is redundant.

E.g., If I were crossing a channel I may announce “SECURITE (3x), this is Kayak 1, beginning crossing of channel near big blue light. OVER”

Second hint tip, it would behoove you and your group to designate a “working” channel for common chatter (68, 69, 71, and 78A are all open channels -- click here for a full list of VHF channel designations in the US). You'll get a firm reprimand from local authorities for using 16 to discuss where stop for lunch.

Other Tips

Become familiar with the function of your VHF, practice using it in your group. You will quickly learn how to maximize its usefulness as a verbal communication tool.

Keep your VHF close to you; it does little good tucked away in a day hatch underneath your lunch, spare clothes, water and first aid kit. I made a simple modification (see photo above) to my PFD using a piece of bungee and two brass grommets from the fabric store. When I am in a situation where I may use my VHF I keep it fastened to my PFD, I can quickly grab the unit, pull it free of the bungee and have full access for communication. Because it is tethered by the cord I can also let go of it and be ready to paddle in an instant.

Pack and transport your VHF in a way that ensures the unit is not accidentally turned on while traveling. I do this placing it and my other electronics in a plastic case. This will help you avoid the sinking feeling of putting on your gear and finding the batteries in your VHF have gone dead.

Summary

To recap, with your VHF you can: get the weather forecast, use the removable antenna as a finger splint, actively communicate with your group, communicate with other boat traffic, turn it up really loud and wake up a whole camp, make EMERGENCY calls.

How Stuff's Made: Plastic Kayaks

If you've ever wondered how exactly a plastic kayak is made, here's a short video showing the production of an Easky 15 kayak at the Pyranha / Venture / P&H Sea Kayaks production facility in the U.K.



How about the new lime color for 2008!


Part II: Seats, decklines, etc...